Lacquered 1911 D- with hundreds of hours of xylene in the sun

I posted this coin before I believe, but after more days of soaking this crazy coin this is how it looks now. It's an album coin at this point for me so if it looks worse (which it does IMO) I am ok with that. I simply want this lacquer off. The below phots were when I first had acetoned and xylened it several days perhaps (I know they don't look that bad but it had heavy lacquer at the time). The last set of photos is after hundreds of hours (at least 1-2 weeks I would estimate) of soaking in xylene in the sun in a glass jar outdoors on my lawn. Anyone know how to remove this full proof because this experiment is RIDCULOUS and frustrating. I have at least 4-5 other nice coins I bought with deceptive photos that are lacquered, so if I can find a consitent way to remove it would be nice.

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

More photos

Here's a few more photos after the extensive soaking: The grey on the reverse is unattractive and certainly frustrating. I don't believe the lacquer was removed much. I just think the coin got uglier. One more for the numismatic TOOL BOX. Maybe, I am just a tool? :desk::desk:

 

Well - I don't see the gray you mention, but that last picture of the reverse makes it look rough. Poor coin.

 

I agree with Doug. I think that you have gone about aew far as you are going to be able to go with this one.

 

Boss,
If the xylene didn't dissolve it, it must be an acrylic lacquer ( post 1955 ) or a polyurethane material which produces a cross linked thermoplastic reaction. Xylene should work well with the natural lacquers or shellacs used previous to this time. Although it didn't dissolve, did it soften? In some woodworker's magazines, they use solvents to soften it and then peel it off. I am sure you would have mentioned if it had. If it is a lost cause, the only thing I might think of is DMSO which is a solvent used with epoxies and others. It is readily absorbed through the skin though.

Jim

 

Mark H: the grey I was referring to is on: 1) Abe's face; 2) the reverse in a diagonal pattern from the O CE toward the lower R wheat and also 3) the bottom L of the reverse. In the before photos the coin had a uniform color.Keep in mind I bought these coins (I have several) in ignorance. I won't sell without a disclaimer (which would hurt the price), so it's worth it to me to try and fix. Hopefully others can learn to identify lacquered coins from thisJim: thanks I'll look into DMSO. That was very helpful. I assume that's the solvent the woodworkers use. The xylene did not soften it but it definitely remove it. You can see how the 1911 D became more prominent in the recent pics. The scratch on the lower center reverse as well became more pronounced. All the details became stronger.

 

I still think MEK is the best to use to remove artificial coatings on koinz. It does not like any type of plastic. :goofer:

Ribbit

 

DMSO shouldn't be used by anyone except trained chemists. Do not play with that solvent.

Xylene is not similar enough to the material on the coin, therefore it wouldn't dissolve it. With solvents, just remember "like dissolves like". Like desertgem said, the material must be a cross-linked polymer. This produces a very long carbon chain, it will be very tough to dissolve. A mixed solvent system such as mineral spirits or gasoline may work better and, at this point, be worth a try to remove the remaining surface debris.

 

Hey Thad, do you have new info on DMSO? Last MSDS I read seemed to indicate that it had low toxicity unless you were mixing chemicals (Sodium Cyanide in DMSO solution is a real "killer" on the skin)with it, , but DMSO by itself seemed to be rather tame. I want to keep up on it as several of my arthritic friends say it is better than anything else on their joints ( although they smell like garlic).

Jim

 

Sandblasting will work...the side effects are not always desirable.

 

I look that up and see re: DMSO. Haven't heard of it. I appreciate the input a lot. I will try anything that works. Can you use gloves? Or does it dissolve? I don't usually use gloves with xylene as it dissolves and I don't want it on the coin.

 

Boss..I'm disappointed in you. I won't use the "L" word though. I don't want to cause anyone to go off of their meds.

 

and then there's.....the ever dreaded...peroxide....shhhhh! you'll wake the patients.:secret:

 

Dear Tom- in all seriousness- what is the "L" word and how do I disappoint? I don't think peroxide will remove lacquer- likes dissolve likes. It's not a solvent. I tried peroxide on worn 1923 S (VF grade) with a bunch of green verdigris and it turned it black. A very extensive soak in Verdigone removed all the verdigris, now I am retoning the coin. Needless to say I hesitate to use without further experimentation on low grade coins. I will try Thad's advice on the mixture of solvents (I assume mineral spirits with xylene) though that point is not clear to me?

 

Dear Tom- in all seriousness- what is the "L" word and how do I disappoint? I don't think peroxide will remove lacquer- likes dissolve likes. It's not a solvent. I tried peroxide on worn 1923 S (VF grade) with a bunch of green verdigris and it turned it black. A very extensive soak in Verdigone removed all the verdigris, now I am retoning the coin. Needless to say I hesitate to use without further experimentation on low grade coins. I will try Thad's advice on the mixture of solvents (I assume mineral spirits with xylene) though that point is not clear to me?

 

GD- sorry to sound cavalier- I wouldn't have tried anything without confirmation. I was gonna PM Thad or Jim and get further advice.

 

Well, it's their liver! I don't like any solvents that so readily absorbed into the blood. Just touch DMSO and you can instantly taste it. It's a very strong solvent.

 

This is generally true, but not in this case. What you're probably thinking of is when idiots mix something like bleach and vinegar.

Boss - I didn't mean for you to mix xylene and mineral spirits, just use the mineral spirits straight.