Hello, I have a 1937 buffalo head nickel. It is a philadelphia eddition as it has no marks under the buffalo. I dont know much about coins so I would like some oppinions on what it is worth, and maby some info about it. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you! -Matt
Welcome to the forum Matt. The value of any coin depends on its grade, even the most common ones. There were 79,485,769 1937 Buffalo Nickels minted in Philadelphia in 1937 so this is a pretty common date. Again, depending on the grade your nickel is worth anywhere from a grade of Good at around $1 dollar to a grade of MS65 which lists for $70.00. There was also a proof made that year also which lists for $850.00. Of course coins with a full strike and exceptional eye appeal could sell for much more. We could be much more specific for you if you could post a few photos of the coin, obverse and reverse. You could also benefit by buying yourself a current "Red Book" aka "A Guide Book of United States Coins" which is loaded with great information.
i'm sorry I can't get any pictures my digital camera isn't working. I don't know much about coins but I did do some research on the internet. I read that if there is no mint marks under the buffalo it was made in philly. Is that right? The coin is in exelent condition, just a little dirty. Should I clean it or will that hurt it or lower the value? What is grade and how do I find out what mine is? Thank You!
Yes, if there is no mint mark (d or s) under the Buffalo then the coin was minted in Philadelphia. Cleaning your coins is a personal preference and it can be right or wrong depending on how you go about it. Letting tap water run over the coin and patting it dry with a soft cloth seems to be the safest, but, do not rub the coin with the cloth or even your fingers. As for grades of your coin. According to ANA Grading Standards: GRADE AG3 - Obverse: Design is outlined with nearly all details worn away. Date and motto are partially readable but very weak and merging into the rim. Reverse: Entire design is patially worn away. Rim is merged with letters. G4 - Obverse: Entire design is well worn with very little detail remaining in central part. LIBERTY is weak and merged with rim. Date is partially visable. Reverse: Bison is nearly flat but is well outlined. Horn does not show. Legend is weak but readable. Rim is worn to tops of the letters. VG8 - Obverse: Outline of hair is visable at temple and near cheekbone. LIBERTY merges with rim. Date is clear. Reverse: Some detail shows in head. Lettering is all clear. Horn is worn nearly flat. Rim is flat. F12 - Obverse: Three quarters of details show in hair and braid. Liberty is plain. Reverse: Major details are visable along the back. Horn and tail are smooth, but partially visable. Rim is complete but flat in spots. VF20 (typical) Obverse: hair and cheek show considerable flatness, but all details are clear. Feathers still show partial detail. Reverse: Hair on head is worn. Point of horn is not always visable. VF30 (choice) Obverse: Hair shows nearly full details. Feathers and braid are worn but sharp. Reverse: Head, front leg and hip are worn. Horn is worn but distinct on coins that are well struck. EF40 (typical) Obverse: Hair and face are lightly worn but well defined and bold. Slight wear shows on lines of hair braid. Reverse: Horn, hair and flank are lightly worn. EF45 (choice) Obverse: Slight wear shows on the hair above the braid. There is a trace of wear on the temple and hair near the cheekbone. Reverse: High points of hip and thigh are lightly worn. The horn is sharp and nearly complete, although often weakly struck. AU50 (typical) Obverse: Traces of wear show on hair above and left of forehead and at cheekbone. Reverse: Traces of wear show on tail, hip and hair above and around the horn. Surface: Traces of mint luster still show AU55 (choice) Obverse: Only a trace of wear shows on high points of cheek Reverse: A trace of wear shows on the hip and flank. Surface: Some of the mint luster is still present. AU58 (very choice) Has some slight abrasion: high points of indians cheek; bisons hip bone and flank. Shallow or weak spots in the relief (especially the horn) are usually caused by improper striking and not wear MS60 (uncirculated) A strictly uncirculated coin with no trace of wear, but with blemishes more obvious than for MS63. May lack full mint luster and surface may be dull or spotted. MS63 A mint state coin with attractive mint luster, but not noticeable detracting contact marks or minor blemishes. MS65 No trace of wear; nearly as perfect as MS67 except for some small weakness or blemish. has full mint luster, but may be unevenly toned, or lightly fingermarked. A few barely noticeable nicks or marks may be present. MS67 Virtually flawless but with minor imperfections. MS70 A flawless coin exactly as it was minted, with no trace of wear or injury. Must have full mint luster. Some say that a "perfect" coin does not exist. I hope that this helps you Matt!
probaly worth about $1 if its in good shape. and do not clean it, that would really hurt the value.:hammer:
Cleaning coins generally lowers the value of the coin. Also, if you want to check out the value of it, look on ebay and see what they are selling for. Also pcgs online offers an online price guide, although that is for slabbed coins i think so i would check a grade or 2 lower for the price. Also, The Red Book is a great guide for beginners (like myself lol) to see what different coins are worth. The 2008 edition is probably coming out soon so wait a couple months and pick that up.
The 2008 edition has been out for quite a while now. You can order it on line or go to any Borders or Barnes & Noble. Some Wal-Marts even carry them.
@Daniel egleston This thread you quoted and stated nothing is from 2007.. A necro thread Do you have a question?
I know you haven't been on CoinTalk since 2007 but coins are not printed. So they can't have a misprint. Also.. It's not called a buffalo head nickel.. Just a buffalo nickel. For any future readers of this necro thread
