It might go thru as NT but I am not sure if all the toning is NT... There is some for sure, but that green is not what I would be wanting in a NT...
Sure, I like a grain or two of salt to liven up the taste of something. But seriously, I have learned a bit.
I have been joining in on the GTG posts here and have learned some things from them.
one of these days I would like to go. Not this year though.
I bought a no P 1982 dime a number of years ago and was hoping that I could also find one in the wild, but nope. The value has not really...
I look for one in the wild... but may have to break down and purchase one.
[IMG]
Look to the left at the '3'. You can see where there was likely metal that it was a '8', so this only now appears to show a 1935 date. It was not...
Coins are graded by the amount of wear that is on the coin. Not weather it entered circulation or not. If it was graded uncirculated 60-70 for...
what does the reverse look like?
It takes time to do. Since you have them sorted, pick a year or two and look for all the errors they are reported to have. Mentally make a note if...
nice!
Paddy, IDK. The crackout game is something I have not played. But if enough info is available to pretty much conclusively say a coin is MS vs PR...
I don't have any experience in cracking out to grade at PCGS or asking for a reholster to put correct info.
i'm going to say what Paddy was getting at that it is graded a PR63....but I don't think it should be.
I'll phone you. Money wise, AU makes better sense.
I am not going with proof because from the little I read, proof dies for this were usually better and generally did not show clashing.
I'm making a leap to that which is probably wrong. This is my first try at doing this series and although parts of the coin seem a little weak I...
I will go with MS simply because from the pics I am seeing om my laptop it looks like it might be that.
You are right, I need to.
Separate names with a comma.
