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US Coins Forum This forum dedicated to the discussion of United States Coins.

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Old 10-06-2005, 09:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NOS
The people at the grading companies are human like us so as long as you know what to look for there isn't any reason that you couldn't authenticate them yourselves with a good magnifier and the like.


You are correct - but how many people actually do know what to look for ?? Not many.

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Old 10-06-2005, 10:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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True...but try to sell it sight-un-seen or with only a few photos...it won't go for as much as a slabbed one...I'm sure my coins are real and I have no problem with them being raw...but I also want to make them so if I need to...I can get the most for my money...think about it a bit and I think you will agree with me.

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Old 10-07-2005, 12:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Speedy
NOS
True...but try to sell it sight-un-seen or with only a few photos...it won't go for as much as a slabbed one...I'm sure my coins are real and I have no problem with them being raw...but I also want to make them so if I need to...I can get the most for my money...think about it a bit and I think you will agree with me.

Speedy

If you frequent in key date coins then I recommend you go out and learn as much as possible and get a forgery book. Trick with the '14D is to check the spacing in the date to see that it is not a 1944D for example. You may get more for the coin Speedy but how about the price you had to pay to get it slabbed? I think in the end it evens out...
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Old 10-07-2005, 01:42 AM   #19 (permalink)
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a die break does not necessarily have to exist on every authentic 1914-d, but it could exist on every one if the die break was there from the first to the last coin minted, and if there was only one die used (is that plausible?).
As I'm the first to admit, I'm in no way an expert on U.S. coins, but I find it inconceivable that 1,193,000 coins were struck from a single die!
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Old 10-07-2005, 09:33 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Speedy but how about the price you had to pay to get it slabbed? I think in the end it evens out...
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I almost agree...but it depens on who you send it too...if you send it to NGC then yes...I agree...but if you send it to ANACS for the $10 service...I don't agree...

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Old 10-07-2005, 09:59 AM   #21 (permalink)
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...but if you send it to ANACS for the $10 service

Speedy
Hey, Speedy.

Is the $10 service something where they grade and authentic but don't slab?

That might be the way to go for me.

By the way, does your 1914-d lincoln have the die break?

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Old 10-07-2005, 10:07 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Speedy,

I think I answered my own question. Looks like the $10 service is just slower, but they still slab. I suppose one could request that they not slab (wonder it that costs extra) :-)?

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Old 10-07-2005, 01:25 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Why ask them to not slab??...if you want it raw...crack it out after you get it back...but then I would leave it in the slab as I said...

Call ANACS and ask how long it takes now...I know that they are able to get them back faster than 3 months now...also I think they do have a Authentication only service...but not sure how much....call them and ask...they are great to talk with!

Speedy
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