before?? If so, is it suppose to be like a rubbing compound substance? I got the imppression from doing research on it prior to buying it that it was a liquid substance, but when I bought a container at a local coin show it was more like a rubbing compound substance. I tried it on a few test coins and didn't like the result so I ditched it, but I was just wondering if the container I had wasn't sitting around for two years which explains why it was more like a rubbing compound substance as opposed to a liquid substance, if indeed it is suppose to be a liquid substance. I normally don't bother cleaning coins, but I have a some moderns with fingerprints on them that I want to get off. Yes, I know any type of cleaning is frowned upon, but unfortunately many dealers and collectors do it anyways and these are moderns that aren't worth that much anyways.
Ezest is a dip, not a rubbing compound. It is EXTREMELY powerful (not to mention toxic), it actually eats away the metal of the coin, which is why if it is used it must be very quick, i.e. less than 10 seconds AT MOST. It will take off toning and, I suppose if left in long enough it'd take off fingerprints too. I would not recommend ezest for taking off fingerprints, though. Acetone will work for that unless the oil from the fingerprints have eaten into the coin.
DJ is right, it is very strong, I have used it on some of my coins and they looked great afterward. IF! you are going to use it, definitely experiment on something you won't regret! I actually didn't dip them as long as recomended up to ten seconds. I was told by a coin dealer who did warn me that it actually works better on BU coins only, it will wash out any circulated coins (He was right) and it did work out ok, coins came out "blast white" afterward. They were for my Dansco books, so I was pleased. They all kept their mint luster. Dip them for a second or two, remove the coin rinse with some fast running cold tap water and used a drop of very mild dish or hand soap and water to make sure I got all of the EZ-est off and pat dry them initially and finished drying them with canned air.
It works really well for BU coins if used correctly. As stated, it will wash out circulated coins, giving them an unnatural look. I normally use it for Silver Eagles and Modern Commems that have tarnished a bit.
I use the silver cleaner from Walmart ($3), which is really just thiouric acid, on all the proofs I pull out of circulation. On these proofs (and BU coins) for taking off something like a fingerprint, less than a second is all you should use. Rinse with water and do a second dip for 1 second if you must, but if the dirt is still there after that, then you are better off leaving it as it probably has altered the metal underneath already. Most collectors would rather see the dirt on the coin than a corroded spot (myself included).
E-zest is an almost transparent blue liquid. I have used the cleaner before and still have some on hand. I use it on BU coins only, by gently applying with a Q-tip. I have warm water running during this time and never leave on the coin for more than it takes to remove foreign substances. It does not take long either. Always use water to neutralize E-zest, never rub the coin, and always "pat" dry the coin with a clothe.
I just cringed at the thought of using a Q-Tip on a coin. Heck even a toothpick left marks when I tried it a few times.
The Q-tip is used to apply the substance, not rub a coin's surface. I have never had any problems using this method, as long as the coin is BU or with or has tape or glue on it. I submit to PCGS several times a year, and haven't got a body bag yet. But I have had a lot of practice doing this.
Just as a note of interest, you might find an eyedropper safer to use if you prefer the spot method as opposed to dipping the entire coin.
I cover the coin using the Q-tip. I don't bare down on the coin, and as I stated before, have never had any problems.
Nor would anyone. EZest is a mixture of sulfuric acid and thiourea with a colored surfactant, and copper coins do not react in a desirable outcome, as the copper surface is removed, but the underlying "fresh" copper has a pinkish un-natural look for any copper as the original patina from the minting is also removed. Same as using any of the old methods on copper, catsup, lemon juice,vinegar, hot sauce, anything with an acid content. They don't work. That is why there are copper "darkeners" , invented to try and cure the mishap from using a dip, but they are detectable also.
As stated, e-zest is not for copper or really for any coin. I have tried it on silver and nickel coins, and only MS examples at that. I don't recommend using this product on coins. I just haven't had any issues with silver coins.
I used EZ est to remove the AT from 2 "clorox toned" coins that were a deep purple black. I diluted it with an equal amount of distilled water, and had the tap in the sink running. I wore gloves and quickly swirled the coin in the solution for a few seconds, then rinsed with running water and blotted dry. Process repeated until the AT was removed, then put the coin in a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid, followed by distilled water rinse. The full strength solution is very potent and I would only use it diluted.
How to have a white luster on circulated coins is there any chemical to have a luster on circulated coins if anyone having idea pls share
Can't be done. True luster is a function of the light on the microscopic flow lines left on the surface of the coin by the movement of the metal during striking. Once those line are destroyed by wear they are gone for good and the luster is gone as well. A chemical dip can make a coin "white" again, but the worn areas will have a much duller appearance than any unworn areas that still have luster. And a heavily worn coin dipped "white" will have a dead washed out appearance to it. Closest I have even seen to a chemically restored luster is on copper coins that have been treated with cyanide. (and i don't recommend playing around with that)
Who was that Coin Seller from the past that was dipping his gold coins in Cyanide while he was drinking? Evidently, he reached over for his drink and ended up grabbing the cyanide and "kilt" hissef!
J Sanford Saltus, died 1922, Second Vice President of the ANS 1900 - 1905 and President of the New York Numismatic Club and British Numismatic Society at the time of his death.
Think I'll stick with acetone or hot distilled water alone and be statisfied w/results. Anyone try steaming w/ distilled water?
