Ok, I got through all of them last night.
No type 2's
However these must have been in a protected place for a long time.
I basically got 3 full sets (withstanding the 73, 74 of course) in very high grades.
Got 71, 72, 75/76, 77 and 78 in both P & D in I'd estimate MS 64 and possibly a MS 66 for 72' which is great in my opinion.
The 77' and 78' are absolutely stunning and look as if they just came out of early state dies.
Although 1 has a great die break and 1 has a struck through error both in MS 65 or so.
Toning is pertie!!!
I'm interested in trading and exchanging coins of interest with other collectors/numismatists.
Let's see a pic of this supposed MS66 '72. If it's a T1 or T2, you're talking about a 5 digit coin... even a T3 in MS66 breaks $1k.
Gut feeling is you're solidly overgrading.
I tend to agree with you though
Will the 1972 type II have a P mint mark for sure or could it be one with no mint mark at all??
I saw two Ikes in the teller tray today and bought them. One is an average condition 1972D and the other is a pretty nice uncirculated 1976D. Do Type II varieties exist for 1972Ds or does that variety just exist for the 1972Ps? The 1976D is a normal clad coin but since it is in such nice condition is it worth more than a dollar?
I get so many Ikes from tellers now that it's really cutting into my working capital. Unloaded a bunch on eBay. Not sure whether I want to keep hoarding them or not. My heart says YES, but my wallet wants more silver halves! LOVE the feel of that big hunk of metal though!
Best way to tell a T1 from a T2 bicentennial is to look at the R of dollar... curved tail on the lower extension of the R = T2, straight and stubby = T1.